29 July 2007

To tell you the truth

Prop•a•gan•da - Pronunciation[prop-uh-gan-duh]–noun: information, ideas, or rumors deliberately spread widely to help or harm a person, group, movement, institution, nation, etc.

Propaganda has been a time-honoured tool in times of war - intended to encourage and inspire the troups and to demoralise the enemy. I remember the images of planes 'bombing' the enemy territory with pamphlets, scattering paper indiscriminately across the countryside in the hope that the words contained therein would sway the opinions of soldiers and/or civilians.

Propaganda movies, press releases, books, magazine articles, etc etc.

And propaganda art.

This form of the tool was widely used in Vietnam before, during and after the American war. Artists were essentially ordered to paint posters that demonstrated a particular message that was sent out by the party machine. These posters were then hung up in public places for all to see.

The really old ones were done with pastel or cheap paints that rub off easily today. Later ones were painted with better quality materials. Sometimes the artist would sign them. Other times not.

Over the past 5-10 years, collectors have started to buy up originals. Scouts have hunted out posters from around the provinces, finding originals tucked away in public offices, dusty cupboards and drawers.

We are probably a bit late with coming in to the market, but we have started off our collection with the following four posters.































The captions mean, in order:

. "Vietnamese Youth Can Defeat Any Enemy"

. "Gallant Fighting. Glorious Winning" - Celebrating the 200th USAF plane shot down.

. "American Enemy Determined to Lose. Vietnam Determined to Win" - Celebrating the 1000th USAF plane shot down

. "Hold tight to your guns and protect the achievement of the revolution"

We are pretty convinced that the first one is authentic and that it was painted in 1970 by a well known artist named To Lien. However, we are not so sure about the other three - but we hope to find out soon.

Hillary is arranging to meet up with the guru of Vietnam propaganda art, a guy named Dominic Scriven. He is a businessman here in Vietnam with several companies to his credit, including an investment bank called Dragon Capital. Over the past five years he has bought up hundreds of originals. He has popularised the art form by setting up a business called Dogma, which is based on copying the originals and reproducing them on clothing, accessories and of course - as cheap posters.

So, we are hopeful that Dominic may be able to assist us authenticate our current posters and to make sure we collect a few more originals. We'll let you know what we find out.

28 July 2007

Le Cong Kieu - Antique Street





We spent a few hours today wandering along "Antique" Street. Shop after shop filled to the brim with stuff ranging in age from 5 to 500 years old. Porcelin, pots, and plates; coins, candelabras and cans; bells, bowls, buffalo horns, baskets and brass Buddhas.






Hilly has been keen to buy bells since the first few days here. And today we found lots of examples of brass and silver bells that would have been draped around the necks of buffalo or goats or whatever. Now, if what we have been told is true, we have bought a brass bowl, ten bells and a small pipe that are all 16th century. Kind of hard for us to tell - but it looks realy nice. Maybe one day we will find someone who can tell us how old they actually are!

22 July 2007

Xe Om




To hop on the back of a motor bike here is called "xe om" (pronounced 'say om'). It took me a few weeks before I got up enough courage to this, but once you start - its hard to stop. It is a bit like that first time walking across the street in HCMC. You get this crazy feeling of achievement: 'I made it - alive'!

It took Hillaria even longer to decide that she could try. But by now she has racked up a dozen or so rides, so she is definitely a local.

Just about any man sitting on a street corner on a motor bike is ready to take you wherever you want. Usually for about 80 cents - but I probably over pay! I also think that this is definitely a process you need to go through if you want to buy and ride around on your own.

We are getting closer to the Vespa!

21 July 2007

Mui Ne Boats

Sal, Liz and Hill decided to hop on a bus a few months ago to get away from the turmoil of HCMC. They ended up in a small fishing village called Mui Ne, about 200km north and east of home, in Binh Thuan Province. Apparently the bus ride was "interesting", but the road, Highway 706, is very busy and dangerous. But the destination is a welcome break from the pace of the big city.






Mui Ne actually means 'sheltered beach' and is known for its desolate beaches, palm trees, beautiful sand dunes and YES - fishing boats and fishing men.

(Hilly didn't actually take this picture, but since the dunes are so famous, thought you might want to see some sand Mui Ne style.)















The circular boats are made of bamboo and are called 'coracles'. They are still used for work, but there is some fun too. There is an annual boat race along a nearby estuary which apparently draws a lot of onlookers. The racers have to shake and twist their tea-cup boats around the course. Probably takes a while.........




The fisherman are getting a little tired these days - they string all their coracles together, stick them behind a boat with a motor and off they go. And that's not the only thing that has been changing around town.




Reality bites.

Mui Ne is now better known as a resort town rather than a fishing village surrounded by culture. There are many resorts that are built right along the beach - close enough that high tide laps the gardens.


Apparently some French tourist visited Mui Ne about ten years ago and liked it so much that he decided to stay and open a resort - Coco Beach. And that was the start.

Rooms were good and the pool just great. But the hard part is that these places have been pushing the village right out of the village.



The marketing material says that the sun is almost always shining in Mui Ne. Well, Mother Nature decided that the marketing department needed to have a re-think. The girls were treated to one of those few days that it rains in Mui Ne.

14 July 2007

FĂȘte Nationale

Its Bastille Day!
And what do we think of?


Perhaps some french wine to toast those crazy french and their stormed Bastille?


Or a rather famous tower and the celebrations that will be held beneath it tonight....

Certainly this mind turns to cycling, and a race that finishes........



along a famous french avenue.


Or the most wonderful french restaraunt in the world.

Or a quiet moment on your own wondering how french a door can be .............

No, most of all we think of Gabby! (looking oh so french)
Here is a tasty french horn to help you toast your birthday on this very french day. Viva le France. Viva le Tour! Viva le Gabby!!

hmmm......suppose a french kiss would be out of the question?





Joyeux Anniversaire Gabby!!